On Dec. 23, 2003, the USDA announced the first case of mad cow disease in the United States, and a Washington dairy cow upended the global beef trade
Dec. 23, 2003, was supposed to be a slow news day before the holidays. Instead, Agriculture Secretary Ann Veneman stepped to a podium in Washington, D.C., with news officials had long insisted was unlikely: a dairy cow in Washington state had tested positive for bovine spongiform encephalopathy, better known as mad cow disease. It was the first confirmed case on American soil.
One Cow, Many Borders
The animal was a Holstein dairy cow that had been slaughtered earlier that month at a plant in Washington state. It had been unable to walk, which is why it was sampled for testing, and a USDA lab in Ames, Iowa, flagged the result. Veneman told reporters that the meat from the cow had gone into the food supply, but that the brain, spinal cord and other tissues associated with the disease had been removed. Officials stressed that the risk to consumers was extremely low. The disease had been tied in Britain to a fatal human illness, variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease, which gave the announcement a weight far beyond a single farm. American officials had spent years describing the country's safeguards as strong, and for a few hours before Christmas, that claim was put to its first real public test. The cow, it turned out, had been sampled precisely because the system was designed to look for it.
The economic shock came fast. Within days, more than 30 countries restricted imports of American beef, including Japan and South Korea, two of the industry's most valuable customers, in a trade worth roughly $3 billion a year. Investigators later traced the cow to Canada, which reframed the story as a North American problem rather than a purely domestic one. The USDA soon announced new safeguards, including a ban on using so-called downer cattle for human food, a rule that would have kept this very cow out of the supply. The episode ended with an odd kind of reassurance: the nation's first case arrived on the same day it was caught, and a Christmas week scare produced the tightening of rules that had, until then, been declared sufficient.
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